Pahautea Hut, Pirongia - Airstrip, km881

Forget what I said yesterday - TODAY was my most difficult day so far. 

None of our clothes from the night before had dried despite us hanging them over night - the clouds were so low all night things actually seemed to get colder and wetter instead. We knew the descent from Pirongia was going to be just as muddy as the ascent so putting on our only dry clothes would be a waste. We had to dress in the soaking wet kit from the day before and just hope we could warm ourselves up.

I was feeling quite hopeless and so frozen to the bone that I even cried trying to tie my shoe laces because my fingers were so cold! Luke put my gloves on my hands and zipped up my gaiters for me and we started our walk for the day. 

Everything beyond the trees directly in front of us was white and the constant rain from the night before had made the mud even deeper and more slippery- luke was actually wading knee deep in parts! (I did my best to edge around the sides but took my fair share of plunges into muddy water too). 

Our toes, despite being soaking wet inside our shoes, did soon warm up though. In the UK, climbing a mountain means to climb up to the peak/trig and then back down to the bottom- in New Zealand it means you climb up to the peak/trig and then on the way back down you climb five or six other little hills and mini mountains too. It took us three hours to climb 'down' altogether and I think at least 1.5 of those were spent scrambling up hill on slippery mud or using chains to pull ourselves up over rocks. 

When we did finally reach the bottom, we stood in a stream (our shoes were already soaked rough anyway) and washed the mud from our legs and our clothes ready to start the rest of the day. 

The next 17 or so km we were on road - the weather had held off just enough for our clothes to dry off, our bodies to warm up and our shoes to almost dry. But, of course,  the track soon turned off of road and onto Omarama Scenic Reserve which was a beautiful walk but boggy and wet thanks to the rain starting up again - our clothes were once again wet and covered in sticky clay mud and remained that way until we had walked just over 32km and had had enough for the day. We passed the airstrip at the 881km mark and pitched our tents amongst the sheep just over the ridge of the hill overlooking forest and views of the hills beyond. 

It absolutely chucked it down as soon as our tents were up- ours was still wet inside from being packed away wet two nights before so we had to sit on our towel as we tried to unpack our bags and cook our tea in the non-existent porch of our tent. 

Funnily enough though, these moments inside the tent while the wind is going nuts outside and the rain can't get in are some of the best moments we have on this trip - with a whole bar of dairy milk and a hot chocolate to finish the day with! 

Old Mountain Rd - Pahautea Hut, Pirongia

Today was probably my most difficult day so far. We walked through cow fields and sheep fields up to a forest track. Typically, despite having a day of climbing up 950m, we started his part of the track by going down. The path was that hard slippery mud which is my excuse for falling so ungraciously into the air and landing on my ass a good meter or so further down the hill with my feet flailing in the air. 

We carried on, bruised bum and all, to the DOC camp site at the bottom of Mount Pirongi where we had lunch. 

The weather had held out all day and continued to hold out until we were about two hours from the hut on the summit. It absolutely belted it down- the trees were dripping, the mud was getting wetter and as we climbed further up the rock was getting more and more slippery. 

I was completely soaked through- the water running down my legs was enough to soak my socks through but I'd so far done well to keep the mud out of my shoes UNTIL I took one wrong step into soft mud and lost my entire foot into some Alice in Wonderland mud cavern from which it took several attempts to reclaim my own foot! My socks were muddy, my shoes were muddy, I was wet and I believe my words to Luke were 'every time the mud goes in my shoe I just want to cry!' (I didn't- but it was close.) 

When we reached the summit three  and a half hours after starting (guide says 4-5 hours so quite pleased with self) we found the hut and I was so so happy to see shelter, mattresses and a toilet! 

It rained for the entire evening until about 8.30pm. The clouds dropped  so we could see our first views from the mountain and see the sun go down which was incredible! 

Am very excited about spending the night in a hut tonight and chuffed to have phone service to text home- not sure how I'll cope in the South where phone service is thinly spread!

Microtel Backpackers, Hamilton - Old Mountain Road (24km)

We had a nice slow start today - crunchy nut cornflakes (Luke's favourite) and bananas and yogurt for breakfast with a nice cup of tea. 

We walked alongside the lake a short way before picking up the road to Till's lookout. The TA route takes you through the Taitua Arboretum via cycle path but if you take the foot path instead you can enjoy a nice path through trees and past chicken pens (or chook pens as they call them here!). 

You come out through the car park, follow road for a few km and then follow farm land- be warned, the electric fence is live!! Was in deep conversation with Luke and Renee about which way was the right way when I leant on the fence behind me only to be shocked despite their being nothing in the field to protect! To cross, I thought going underneath would be easier so I drop and rolled under the wire straight on top of a thistle - not my day obviously! 

We carried on over the corn fields until we found a place to camp on Old Mountain Road. A small sign outside their gate pointing to a hose pipe labelled 'drinking water for hikers, 5meters' made it obvious they were TA friendly so we stopped for the day at 24km- it was a hot day too so we were pleased to stop early and pitch the tents (and compare awful tan marks). When the family went out for the evening, we had a quick wash under the hose before cooking and having a game of cards in the tent before bed. 

Clevedon Scouts Camp - Hamilton (140km)

- Clevedon Scouts Camp - Upper Mangatawhiri

There were 7km of road to walk before reaching the Hanua Ranges which gave us chance to make up a bit of distance in the morning but already my right ankle was paying the price for having compensated for the other ones pain coming down the steps into Clevedon the day before.

So now, we were heading into the ranges and I had two kankles; one semi on the mend and the other slowly giving up on me. Thankfully though, the track through the ranges wasn't too tough aside for a few short climbs and some difficulty with orange arrows pointing to each and every direction (have since discovered that orange markers are for ALL DOC paths and not just the TA - I'm sure a few hikers will benefit from knowing that!)

Upper Mangatawhiri camp site was lovely...the area is huge with picnic benches and views of forest all around you and the dam wall to one side is covered in green grass and grazing sheep. We were the first people there so used the opportune moment to wash the mud off of our legs in the toilet and I did my best to wash and dry any dirty clothes while Luke started a camp fire in the stone pit.

We cooked and ate dinner in the little heat we managed to get out of the damp wood and, as is now an evening ritual, guzzled a whole bar of dairy milk chocolate before four or five other cars pulled up for the evening.

- Upper Mangatawhiri - Podges Places, Mercer

I wonder why so many people talk about the Northland Forests and yet nobody thinks to warn you of the beast that comes after the Hanua ranges?

From the Upper Mangatawhiri camp, you follow the 4WD track for some 7km and then continue through similar forest track to the day before. When you leave the ranges however, you enter a track that is wonderfully savage. The mud is just as bad as you've seen before but the vines are tangled in every which way possible and tree roots literally scatter across the entire forest floor. It was as though this wasn't part of the track at all but rather a section that they expect you to just bushwack through to the other side.

At one point, and please excuse the language, Luke turned around with his walking pole in the air and shouted 'F**k you, you stupid piece of sh*t!!' before he literally beat the vine with his pole. (we both fell about laughing shortly after).

While it was frustrating and tough at times, the distance actually in the forest means it only has you for a few hours unlike the Northland's and so we just did our best to enjoy it. As this particular forest doesn't have an official name that we are aware of, we did decide to name it ourself but for the respect of those reading this, I won't share - just know it was as insulting as we could possibly make it.

We crossed the wire bridge from forest to pasture and headed for Mercer service station via the Stopbank after a quick lunch break. It's safe to say that almost two weeks without a rest day was starting to catch up with me and walking through the wet grass and flooded swamps in the wind and rain just tipped me over the edge.

I paused about 5km from Mercer service station and had a little cry on Luke's shoulder - despite really really trying not to seem wimpy!! But when he conveniently let me know that there was a MacDonalds next to our camp for the night, I found it in me to quit winging and walk the remaining 5km for a McMocha and a chicken nugget meal!

The camp itself was in the beer garden of 'Podge's Place' - a small bar that served cold beer and big pizzas - just like every hiker wants at the end of a long day! (We had a pizza each kntop of our MacDonalds!)

- Podges Place, Mercer - Rangiriri, Heritage Centre



- Rangiriri, Heritage Centre - The Smith's, Hamilton

- The Smith's, Hamilton - MicroTel Backpackers, Hamilton

We just had a short day along the cycle path to the centre today - we enjoyed honey on toast at the Smith's house before leaving and then headed for the PAC and SAVE about 8km away.

A quick resupply sent Anna and Robert on for another day while Luke and I decided to stop for two days to (hopefully) recover my ankles!

We did also secretly want to use the opportunity of being in a town to watch the new Harry Potter spin off, 'Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them' which was just fabulous and felt so good to do something normal for he first time in over a month!

Auckland Section (89km)

- Torbay - Auckland City YHA
- Auckland city YHA - Mangere Air BnB
- Mangere Air BnB - Clevedon

What can be said for Auckland? It is like any other big city to we hikers- our bags knock into everyone and everything, our attire against those in business dress is unsightly, and their is nowhere to camp!

Unlike Robert and Anna, we had 't thought of sleeping in Macdonalds and then in the International departures lounge at the airport so wound up spending way more than the budget allowed on a YHA hostel and an Air BnB- will have to get more creative next time!

The coast to coast walk through the city takes you up and around Mt Eden and other old volcanoes in the area, and past the airport you head through botanical gardens and marshland, but mostly it is hard, tiresome, busy road.

There is a stretch before the forest track to Clevedon that leads to a quarry and the number of lorries and trucks that pass is tiresome but once past these long stretches you are rewarded with the return to the countryside in the Waikato-King-Country region.

Dragonspell, Cullen Road - Torbay (141km)

- Dragonspell, Cullen Road - Riverside Holiday Park, Mangawhai

After climbing the forestry track the day before, a (mostly) downhill/flattish route was greatly received. The track, which leads through Dragonspell land, is nicely trampled with a few short climbs to the summit before heading over rolling hills and pasture, coastal path and beach and finishing on road.

The route was fairly easy and thankfully short so that we could enjoy an ice cream and tent drying session before tea time in the shared kitchen/lounge area!

Riverside Holiday Park, Mangawhai - Govan Wilson Road

A biggish day for us today we walked over the hills of Mangawhai forest a short way and continued on beach for 15km where we had to cross the river to Pakiri holiday park. We stopped for some ice tea, an ice cream and refilled water bottles before continuing to Omahi forest. Kevin, Renee, and Ollie (who had serious problems with back at this point) stopped mid forest and pitched their tents between the pine trees. Luke and I decided to push through. When we got to the other side we realised there weren't quite as many houses as we first thought. It was raining, it was getting dark and the only way to go after this short stretch of road was the Dome forest. We knocked on doors but got no answer, we noted bits of grass on the side of the roads as possibilities for pitching tents and I think we'd both lost hope when, thankfully, we caught a man and his daughter mowing the grass in their front garden.

Luke walked part way down the driveway and before he'd had chance to ask, the mower had been stopped and we'd been given a place to pitch a tent. Matt, the owner of the land, brought us out a beer while he put his children to bed and then invited us in for a hot shower, a cup of tea and a square of coconut chocolate.

Knowing it was his daughters birthday the morning after, we made a hasty departure so we didn't interrupt the celebrations, and followed the road to the Dome.

Govan Wilson Road - Nanekiti Homestead

The Dome is a great forest- the perfect family day out (though I'm sure my brother would disagree!!) it had everything the other forests have but much less mud and the hills roll into one another rather than squeeze into points and plummet into bog.

After making our way over fields to Nanekiti homestead where we pitched our tents in the owners front garden and made use of the bathroom and kitchen, we drank hot chocolate and slept extremely well!

Nanekiti Homestead - Orewa Holiday Park

Well, being on a budget is sometimes an inconvenience but today, being on a budget was a BIG inconvinience. The usual route once you've passed Puhoi (and visited the pub for a beer and chip basket) takes you down the river on kayak but the price is not cheep. We decided instead to take the road which meant a few km on highway 1- I think the beeps were good ones to cheer us on but they could have been ones telling us to get off the busiest bloody road in the whole of New Zealand!

After that, we had to edge our way around the rocks (advisable in low tide but we'd arrived later than expected and had walked too much Road to detour). The rocks were just about high enough above water to climb over without getting wet feet if we clung to the sides so we pushed on until we made it to Orewa beach unharmed and walked past the tsunami safe zones and onto the path that took us along the shore to the holiday park.

We resupplied and walked around the city once we'd showered before returning for another good nights sleep.

I'm the morning, I signed in for my 100mb of free internet data. It was gone within the first theee minutes of signing in. Little did we know while sleeping in our little tents that there had been an earthquake in Kaikoura (South island). It was a 7.3 with almost 3000 aftershocks and was felt as far as Auckland in the North and everyone at home had emailed or texted or whatsapped or facebooked me to check I was still alive.

Mum wrote in to the Auckland Heart radio help page and left messages with the Holiday park, Dad was preparing to fly out and save me himself and Luke's parents had left voicemail after voicemail to check we were ok.

Having joked about the tsunami safe zone the day before, we suddenly realised how careful we really do need to be (and also how lucky we are have a family that worry about me so much!)

Orewa Holiday Park - Torbay

Today was not a good day. I spent the whole day with my left foot turned inwards to try and stop the muscles in my leg from hurting. Every time I bent or flexed my foot, my ankle would hurt and a shooting pain would kick upwards to my shin. It was the same pain people had described after leaving the forest so I knew it wasn't anything serious and tried to push on but the pain got more intense on the road.

We were pushing on and determined to get to long bay regional park but when a lady pulled over in her caravan just 10km from our destination and offered a lift, I sobbed to myself, looked at Luke and he gestured to the car- I was so thankful he did. When we got to the park my ankle had swollen so much you couldn't see the bone anymore. We wandered around looking for camp spots when we saw the dreaded sign for no camping!

As the lady who had dropped us off turned to drive away, she beeped and pointed at a lady dressed in all pink who was running straight for us. She'd noticed we were looking for a camp spot so came to tell us we couldn't stop here but she'd be happy for us to camp in her garden once she'd finished her run - we were so so grateful after feeling so helpless!

She, Mareana, drove us to her home and let us use the bathroom and set up tent- I spent the rest of the afternoon with my foot in the air hoping my ankle bone would return.

In the evening, Mareana, her husband Ryan and their daughter lit a camp fire. We chatted, roasted smores over the fire and ate fresh fruit until dark. I had expected 'free camping' to be more difficult as we approached Auckland but Mareana and Ryan's kindness just reminded me how New Zealand really is the kindest place we've ever been!!

Marsdon Point - Dragonspell, Cullen Road (33km)

After a hearty breakfast, Linda kindly dropped us back to the track at marsdon Point and we followed the beach past Ruakaka for 15km. There were a few rivers/streams to cross on the beach but good weather meant they were no deeper than knee deep for us - we took the extra time to take our shoes off so feet were dry for the forestry tracks on Cullen Road to our next camp site.

While it may have been more beach walking, the break from climbing steep hills and bush walking through vines and branches was welcome. The views behind us were of the heads that we climbed the day before and in front we could see the Bream Tail we'd be climbing the day after. The storm from the night before had washed giant jelly fish onto the beach which too made for an interesting walk.

On the way up to Dragonspell I had what I would call a 'wobble'. I had had enough of walking roads that never stopped going up and enough of legs that ached from top to bottom. I sent Luke on ahead and had a sulk (maybe a little cry) to myself before catching him up in time to pass another walker. He was walking it North bound and was only 400km from finishing - it was just enough to remind me why I was walking this trail. If it wasn't a challenge, I wouldn't be doing it so I tightened my laces and continued brave faced to the camp site which could have possibly been the strangest camp site I'd ever stayed at.

The guys running it had only just started up- they offered bunks but to save some cash we camped. For the first time ever on this trail, they offered a couples discount which made us very happy to have walked the extra few kilometres to get there. The 'peace' sign at the entrance, the scribbles on the water tank and paintwork on the front house made the site seem somewhat wacky but nothing in New Zealand is normal compared to home and the views over the sea were just incredible. We had showers, a cup of tea and chilled in their lounge area before heading to bed with tired legs.

Tidesong, Partua - Marsdon Point (32km)

We crossed the estuary bare foot which was surprisingly relaxing in the way of some kind of mud spa but then we had to try and clean the mud off of our feet on the other side with a bucket of water that Ros and Hugh had lent us which was slightly less spa-like.

From there it was a long day up and down the hills - probably the hardest climb outside of Raetea forest. The orange triangles led us up steps to the peak where we could see all the way back to where we had started the day on Ocean Beach. Taking the few hundred steps back down to the flat, we walked the few remaining kilometres to Reotahi bay where local trail angel, Peter, invited us in for coffee before towing us in the boat on the back of his tractor to Whangarei harbour. He shipped us across in his fishing boat to Marsdon Point and we walked the short way out of the oil refinery where Renee's friend's parents picked us up and took us in for a night of fine dining! (Always knew Renee was a good friend to have!)

We were greeted with two huge spare bedrooms, a shower full of primrose shower gel and treseme shampoo- which felt like the most amazing thing ever, AND our hosts Linda and Brian cooked a BBQ dinner with homemade chocolate cake, strawberries and hokeypokey ice cream for dessert. (Will definitely be buying that ice cream next time I see it!)

We had the best nights sleep besides for Luke's toothache and woke up to poached plums with yogurt, and bacon and eggs on toast... it's safe to say the hospitality of the North had shown itself well over those few days!!

James' Place - Tidesong, Partua (27km)

From James' place it is an 8km road section to the start of the Mackerel Forest track. Having slept wonderfully and had eggs from his chickens for breakfast, we were overwhelmed when James offered to cart our backpacks to the start of the forest track. We walked 8km in just under an hour and a half and felt brilliant.

James arrived with our packs and we proceeded through the forest (taking our shoes off for each of the three river crossings) before finding the road again the other side- at least we had dry feet for the neverending downhill of nothing but tarmac and a lack of hard shoulder. When I was just about ready to stop in my tracks and contemplate why on earth I was doing this, a couple pulled their car over to one side and offloaded fresh fruits, trail mixes and dehydrated pasta meals for us. I'm continually being amazed by the kindness of the people out here and as TA hikers we seem to have their upmost respect - it's difficult to follow the 'no sweets from strangers' rule when everyone is so nice!

The boost of fresh fruit and a quick stop at Tahi cafe for a nice hot cup of tea carried us through to the bnb. Having been drenched in a crazy downpour on the way, we were overwhelmed again by the  locals kindness and hospitality. Ros and Hugh, the owners of the bnb, had hot tea, scones, biscuits and banana loaf on the table ready for us and made us feel as though we were back at home for the evening.

Ros cooked a beautiful meal for all ten of us squeezed around the dining table like on Christmas Day. We had chicken, sausages, fresh bean salad and sweet potatoes for main, ice cream, fresh fruit and pineapple chocolate for dessert and homemade carrot cake for after that!

With full tummies we all huddled in the lounge and watched an episode of 'Te Araroa; Tales from the Trail' - Ros herself walked the trail after giving Hugh a kidney. She wanted to prove it could be done and the donor could remain healthy and my god, she did just that!

After a lovely evening, we all retired to our rooms and settled into our sleeping bags on the floors of the BnB inside while a storm began outside.

The storm lasted all night and continued in the morning. While some pushed on, Luke, Renee, Kevin and I were enjoying the comforts of Ros and Hugh's just too much and booked in for an extra night. Hugh drove us into town for a resupply and Ros prepared a delicious roast with wine for us to enjoy on our return.

Luke spent most of the afternoon smashing macadamia nuts on the kitchen floor with a hammer while I split the shells open ready- all was going well and we'd almost done a whole box when Luke accidentally knocked his glass of wine over. We quickly cleared the glass from the kitchen floor and mopped up the wine but Luke then spent the next half an hour cleaning and washing everything in the kitchen in way of an apology- not that Ros/High would have minded that much anyway!

The morning after Ros made poached eggs on toast with fresh parsley from the garden - that along with her assistance across the estuary made for a fantastic start to our day to Whangarei heads.

Pahia 'Pickled Parrot' - James' Place (89km)

Paihia - Helena Bay Old school

We walked as a group of ten today- Luke and I, Renee, Ollie, Eleri, Doug- US, Kevin- US, Anna and Robert- Slovakia, and Pavel- Poland.

The walk through Russell forest was so fun- knee deep in the river for 4km and gentle forest track for the rest. We had broken off from the group slightly by the time we left the forest which was great because we had stopped in a Mauri's driveway to check the maps and got invited in for squash and tea! Camping up with a big group is lovely but sometimes these little treats are far more likely when there's fewer in the party. He offered us a bed but we decided to push on for a bigger day and hit our longest yet at 32km so we could finish up with the rest of the group.

Just before we decided to pitch up  at an old school for the night we decided to stop for water. Luke took the bottles from our bags and, in true Luke style, tried to jump the barbed wire fence. He caught both his legs on the spikes and fell face first onto the field the other side. His shin had been friction burned from top to bottom and  cut open in the middle. I tried to clean it up with an antiseptic as best I could but he insisted he was ok and continued walking... I think he was probably glad to finish come the evening too.

Helena Bay - Whananaki camping

Luke and I started out nice and early today. We climbed the steep roads out of Helena bay until we met with the forest track a few kilometres up and followed the reasonably straight forward  trail through pine forests and along well formed track until we reached Whananaki. While most of the team decided to push on further, we decided taking a shorter day to rest up was better so pitched up in sunshine and dried our tent and our shoes, and relaxed on the grass.

At the camp we met a man called Tom from Manchester. Lovely and very generous but my oh my absolutely bonkers and makes conversation out of anything! He gave us some fried hash browns and a bag of crisps knowing full well the best gift for any hiker is food! He escorted us from the campsite to the start of the next trail along what is the longest footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere. He waved goodbye until we were out of site- must remember to send him a postcard from Wellington as promised.

Whananaki - James' at Ngungaru

After the steady walk to Ngungaru we met James on the estuary. We took off our boots and waded to the boat where he pushed us out of the shallows and took us across to his campsite on the other side.

He has hand biult some treehouse-esque campsite with a composting toilet and hot outdoor showers. It's by far the best spot I've found yet with it's amazing views of the estuary out front and a big shared kitchen with games and stuff at the back. It was bonfire night at home so James built a big fire on the estuary at low tide and gave us  marshmallow to toast as we watched the fireworks go off around the water. Robert (Slovak) played guitar and it felt like something out of a film! - any TA hiker should definitely visit this place!

I would have loved the Milton's to be there-it's the sort of place we'd treasure as a family retreat or something and I especially know how much Dad would love every minute of being here.

Kerikeri Top 10 - Pahia 'Pickled Parrot' (23km)

The walk to Pahia was beautiful and compared to the few days before it was a doddle. We started at the Stonestore in Kerikeri and took the path until it met the road. We had been driven along these roads during our journey to Cape Reinga just a few weeks before- what a different view it was by foot.

We came off of the road and followed triangles through another forest on mountain bike tracks. My knees and hip still sore from the forest tracks, the hills were not well received but we hiked quickly and made it to Pahia in good time where we met the hitchhikers and the injured and settled for another rest day.

We stayed at the Pickled Parott backpackers where Luke, Renee and I shared a room rather than brave the tent in the expected evening rain. I had done so well not crying so far this trip but the niggles and pains made for two days of pathetic winging and crying to myself - missing  the motherly/fatherly comforts of home for a moment as I sat on my bunk, Luke settled it with a cuddle and I took my first swig of rescue remedy- basically small drops of whiskey (thanks to David and Jacqueline!)

We had a huge burger and the following day spent the day on the beach and eating shit loads of rubbish food. We had breakfast free with our room so we made full use of the toaster and real milk rather than our powdered alternative.

We had a short walk the following morning along coastal path to Opua Wharf where we were ferried across to the start of the next track.

We  are hoping to get to Whangarei spending near to nothing as rest days have killed our budget so here's to the next five days not leaving us desperate for a bed and ten thousand pies at the end of it...

Ahipara YHA - KeriKeri Top 10 (122km)

Ahipara YHA - Takahue old school

We had been warned of the Northland forests but nothing quite prepares you for they're ruthlessness. From the very first step into Herekino you are climbing steeply through mud, real mud! Wet, sticky, fills your boots kind of mud. Within the first few minutes I was stopping for breath and my calfs burned. The first climb was strenuous and long but the forest was like nothing I'd ever seen before and every step deeper into it was worth it.

Imagine Jurassic Park: the forest floors are a sheath of tree roots and old branches and in between that there are pools of wet, gooey mud. There are vines that hang down and wrap around your bags and you have no idea whether or not the sun is shining- the only difference between these forests and Jurassic Park is your running from the impending lack of daylight as opposed to a pack of dinosaurs.

There are giant Kauri trees that are the precious tree of New Zealand - they  tower over everything around it and are bigger than any tree I've ever seen before.There are birds that sing all day from the palm trees and streams that take whatever's in its path for its own (though often that may be your shoes.)

It was the first of the three Northland forests - it took everything I had (for 11 hours) to get through it but left me absolutely thirsty for more from the next one.

When we eventually caught up with the other walkers we'd met in Ahipara (Ollie- UK and Renee- Ozzy), we pitched up in an old burnt out school in Takahue and slept very well indeed!

Takahue - Mangamuka farm/field

What an animal! I though Herekino was big and bad enough but Raetea smashed the leaderboard on every scale. Climb after climb after mud slide after mud slide... I have never laughed and giggled so much in my life.

It was hard but the only way, for me at least, to get through these forests are by taking them as they are. Getting muddy and falling over is all part of it - Luke has a real knack for delving into the falling part. Walking slightly ahead of me for most of the day, I got to witness every comedy run on the spot, every meter long  'control slide' off the side of the path and every full on tumble through forest track that he made. I had the odd small fall myself but not quite as spectacularly as Luke.

After another long 13 hours through forest, we had to make our way over pasture to find a camping spot. As have many others, we took a wrong turning out of the forest but managed to find the correct trail before having to push our backpacks under bush like some others had. We followed the orange markers down to a farm where we had to pass a team of very loud/angry sounding dogs (thankfully chained) to a gravel road. We reached a sign that read 'Trampers Camping' and caught site of another tramper's tent in the long grass (Blair- NZ). Thank god for trail angels lending land for camping at times like those!!!!

Mangamuka - Apple Dam

This walk was a pleasure after having tackled two days of forest. We followed road for 6km to Mangamuka Dairy where we stopped for an hour and ate pies, fresh fruit and cold drinks like we were never going to eat again. (Luke, Renee, Blair, Rolf -Swiss, and I) We five were the only ones of the ten that were at Ahipara camp to continue at this point. Others had injuries or blisters, one person had even lost the sole of their boot in Raetea!! (Pasquale- Germany - carries a 100lt pack but no GPS or phone- got to hand it to him!) )

Once we were full and ready to move again, we took the long, windy path to Appledam camp site. Not much was there but sometimes a patch of grass and a long drop (a non flushing toilet) is all you need!

Apple Dam - Puketi DOC camping

Puketi is a gem. I was scared shitless about this forests due to warnings of flash floods in bad weather and so on but I am so glad I found it in me to walk it. Most of the track is fairly well trodden but the first half is what I came to New Zealand to see. We walked through the river for some time. Luke was a gentleman and moved logs and bush out the way in an attempt to keep my boots dry- despite everyone's comments, I did make it until the last few meters with almost completely dry boots!! After all the effort, however, what they say is true, you will get wet feet in Puketi. We were knee deep, which I believe is actually pretty shallow in this case!

The track after that was almost not track at all- most had completely subsided or was about to and it was a matter of hoping you were quick and agile enough to walk across the 'path' before it disappeared but it was beautiful and oh so fun to be really challenged!

When we reached the proper path for the second half, we made up a bit of distance and pursued another climb before dropping back down to Puketi DOC camp in the sunshine where we dried our boots and played cards in our minuscule tent.

Puketi - Kerikeri Top Ten x2

Word on the street is 'if you make it to Kerikeri, you're gonna make it to the end' - team of 10 that had accumulated in Ahipara has become 4 but we remaining are Northland forest queens, woohoo! The walk from Puketi was another beautiful one- over pasture with views of the Bay of Islands from the hills and along side the Rainbow falls to the famous Kerikeri Stonestore.

Now I have conquered the beach, have made it through the forest (with almost dry boots) and am fully deserving of having  a rest day in Kerikeri due to semi-arthritic hip and aching knee. Can neither make it up, nor down hills and there is no flat in New Zealand so I had no choice but to sit here and stuff my face with dairymilk and pastries.

Tomorrow we are walking to Pahia to meet up with the hitch hikers, then to Opua where we catch the water ferry, and then surprise, surprise- another forest!

Twilight Beach - Ahipara (89km)

-Twilight Beach - The Bluff

We woke, for the first time on our walk, with the morning sun. By 7.30am we were on our way to the start of 90 Mile Beach. We climbed the few short hills to the steps before dropping down onto sand (I have also learned that very often on the TA, we only walk up steep hills to immediately drop back down again - though these hills are practically flat compared with what else we have had to tackle since). At first, the walk along the shore was exhilarating - the sun was out and I was on a beach, what could possibly be better?

It could have been a mere 10kms or less before I realised what all the fuss was about. The ground may have been flat and the weather on our side but a lack of (drinkable) water made it most appropriate to make it to the next designated camp at the Bluff.

It was a 30km day all on the sand:  my ankles were tender, my legs were stiff and sand was everywhere but at the end of it was a shower. While it was cold, it was glorious (as are any other opportune showers along this walk!)

We pitched up in the wind, applied deet spray and prayed for a dry tent in the morning.

-The Bluff - Hukatere

We may have woken in the almighty Bluff wind with a dry tent but my goodness, I did not wake up with a happy face. Having mistakingly only applied deet spray to my legs and arms,  and mistrusted Luke with control of the bug net zip, I woke to a faceful of bites. Catching my reflection in Luke's sunglasses, I could see my whole forehead covered in at least 20 bites all begging me to relieve them of the itch - I spent the following 2 weeks trying not to give in. (Another lesson- remember to deet EVERYTHING!)

The hike must go on ...and when we were just 500meters from our camp for the night, Luke had to remind me just that- we had walked another 30km day and I had come to the edge. I didn't want to move a single step further. He waited for me to have my five minutes of standing on one spot staring at the ever stretching beach either side of me and then we dragged our feet to Utea at Hukatere. I had never been so glad to reach a camp before (this feeling has been relived many times since!) We had a 'serves 2' dehydrated meal each and bought three beers for $10 which felt extremely well deserved.

-Hukatere - Ahipara YHA

Three 30km days and my body hated me. The notorious 90 mile beach had (almost) beaten me.

I had a blister on the bottom of my foot that grew every time I put my heel on the ground, one on the back of each heel, and legs that just didn't want to move anymore. But we had done it.

The joys of reaching Ahipara cannot be described- we had walked 100km (1/30 of the trail) and could drink something that was not stream water. No questions asked- the next day was a 'zero day.'

Cape Reiga - Twilight Beach (12.5km)

We had prepared for everything. Our route was planned, our bags were packed and our shoes were tied but unfortunately for us, the tide had beat us to the trail. We took the coastal path from the lighthouse down to the beach expecting to pick up a fairly substantial path along the shore but instead found a steep bank with some very wet rocks at its base. Being sensible, we decided the steep bank would be safer than the rocks so we took a semi-trodden path 40meters up. The path from here disappeared into thick, prickly bush up to our knees. Hot and already both reasonably dischevelled, we climbed back down and instead attempted to scramble over the rocks. For a time this route was largely successful but no more than 10 minutes in we were faced with the decision to backtrack to the start or plunge into a two meter pool of sea water. We took the 'sensible route' once again and raced back with the sea lapping at our feet. 'Better try the bank again' we thought.

Up, up, up we go through brambles and bush where thank god we found some other hikers. Another English girl, Eleri, and two Swiss guys, Nathan and Rolf. We let the Swiss trample the path infront in true ex-army style and followed them behind stumbling over tree roots and brambles as we went, and finally, 1 hour after starting, we made it onto the beach where we hoped to make up some time.

What we had expected to be a quick and easy day turned out to be a longer, more arduous day than we could have prepared for as we followed the orange markers over sand dunes and up steep steps to our camp for the night -  something I will always remember while walking and planning my days on the TA is never to assume a day's difficulty before I've begun.

So having gotten lost within our first hour of walking the mighty TA, we pitched up, ate, and retired to bed all rather quickly.

Post 1

I always planned to blog about my adventures in New Zealand, but once I had arrived  and actually begun this ridiculous trek I changed my mind. I started a diary on day one and continued to keep a diary for my own amusement at the end of each long day but soon realised no combination of words in a blog post could do this trip justice.

However, for the simple fact that I promised a few dear friends at home that I would, here it is; my best descriptions of an indescribable adventure in New Zealand.

Please note: one cannot be held responsible for any bad language or grammatical errors due to long, tiresome days and lack of ozone protection from sun possibly destroying brain.