Twilight Beach - Ahipara (89km)

-Twilight Beach - The Bluff

We woke, for the first time on our walk, with the morning sun. By 7.30am we were on our way to the start of 90 Mile Beach. We climbed the few short hills to the steps before dropping down onto sand (I have also learned that very often on the TA, we only walk up steep hills to immediately drop back down again - though these hills are practically flat compared with what else we have had to tackle since). At first, the walk along the shore was exhilarating - the sun was out and I was on a beach, what could possibly be better?

It could have been a mere 10kms or less before I realised what all the fuss was about. The ground may have been flat and the weather on our side but a lack of (drinkable) water made it most appropriate to make it to the next designated camp at the Bluff.

It was a 30km day all on the sand:  my ankles were tender, my legs were stiff and sand was everywhere but at the end of it was a shower. While it was cold, it was glorious (as are any other opportune showers along this walk!)

We pitched up in the wind, applied deet spray and prayed for a dry tent in the morning.

-The Bluff - Hukatere

We may have woken in the almighty Bluff wind with a dry tent but my goodness, I did not wake up with a happy face. Having mistakingly only applied deet spray to my legs and arms,  and mistrusted Luke with control of the bug net zip, I woke to a faceful of bites. Catching my reflection in Luke's sunglasses, I could see my whole forehead covered in at least 20 bites all begging me to relieve them of the itch - I spent the following 2 weeks trying not to give in. (Another lesson- remember to deet EVERYTHING!)

The hike must go on ...and when we were just 500meters from our camp for the night, Luke had to remind me just that- we had walked another 30km day and I had come to the edge. I didn't want to move a single step further. He waited for me to have my five minutes of standing on one spot staring at the ever stretching beach either side of me and then we dragged our feet to Utea at Hukatere. I had never been so glad to reach a camp before (this feeling has been relived many times since!) We had a 'serves 2' dehydrated meal each and bought three beers for $10 which felt extremely well deserved.

-Hukatere - Ahipara YHA

Three 30km days and my body hated me. The notorious 90 mile beach had (almost) beaten me.

I had a blister on the bottom of my foot that grew every time I put my heel on the ground, one on the back of each heel, and legs that just didn't want to move anymore. But we had done it.

The joys of reaching Ahipara cannot be described- we had walked 100km (1/30 of the trail) and could drink something that was not stream water. No questions asked- the next day was a 'zero day.'